The culture in the region is an exceedingly rich mixture of Thai, Lao and Vietnamese. There are many archaeological remains from the time when the region was part of the Khmer Empire.
Most people, even if they have only had a primary school education, are bi-lingual, speaking both Thai and Lao. Some also speak Khmer, the language of the past rulers and the present Kampuchean (Cambodian)language.
There has been civilisation in the Isaans region since 2,500 to 5,000 years ago. Archaeological evidence suggests that it developed independently of the neighbouring Indian and Chinese civilisations.
In the 10th to 13th Centuries the culture and art of the region was mainly Khmer, but religious art from the period shows that this were gradually replaced by the Lan Xang culture. The strength of this culture was increased by the arrival of Lao Wieng people in the 18th and 19th Centuries.
Cities like Maha Sarakham, Khon Kaen and Kalasin were founded in this period. The Lao people from around the modern capital Vientiane and the Siamese from Ayutthya attempted to control these new cities since the Khorat Plateau was important to them.
In the late 1700s Raja Kruluang brought about 300 people to settle at Ban Bung Bomnear (in the present day Khon Kaen province). To strengthen links between Isaans and Bangkok King Rama I made Raja Kruluang governor of the city on which he had bestowed the title Nuang Kham Kaenon.
In the 19th Century the city moved six times finally settling at Nuang Kaw. Marshal Sarit Thanarat established Khon Kaen as an administrative centre for the whole North East in the early part of the 20th Century. It was his recommendation that led to the establishment of Khon Kaen University and gave impetus to the development a high standard of education in the region, leading to healthy commercial development.
The modern Isaans people are generally strongly Buddhist and the peace and consideration that Buddhism brings to inter personal skills is very evident. Those with very little insist on sharing with those who have nothing. Food, drink - even accomodation.
On one occasion I visited a family where one of the daughters had to leave home to live and work (long hours) as a domestic helper in Hong Kong, so that her sisters would have a good education and the family would eat. Playing on the floor of the house were two young children whilst a woman in her 30's sat and watched them.
When I asked the friend I was with who they were (not having seen them before) I got the prompt reply "Husband died. He was only 34. Now have no money eat. Come here have food each day".This was not said in a disparaging way, but with a deep and obvious pride in the way Isaans people help others even less fortunate, without any expectation of a return from an 'investment'.
No Social Services or Benefit Office, just generosity beyond anything the rich and advanced West can provide. I have seen similar examples on so many occasions across the region. There have been times that I have even been the recipient of such exceptional generosity, being asked to share a tiny meal with someone who obviously needed all he had.
The Westerner's first response is to say "No thank you!", but that would be an enormous insult in Asian culture since it would infer that the proffered food was not good enough for the guest.
The technique I have found is to take a minimal amount of the food, eat it with obvious relish and after a couple of loud cries of "Aroi! Aroi!" ("I like it! I like it!") declare yourself "Im" (full).
The host still has food for himself, the guest is happy to be invited to eat, and the pride of the host is preserved since generally there will be an audience of other villagers and they will see that the host has provided sufficient food that is appreciated by the foreign visitor.
Artifacts in the North Eastern Culture Museum in Maha Sarakham.
I have a high opinion of
the Wat Mahachai where the museum is housed. A good friend was offered
food and shelter whilst at school in Maha Sarakham. Without that help he could
not have travelled to his secondary school every day, as a result he would not
have earned his degree and become a high ranking Police Officer.
A Morlam singer dressed in the traditional Isaans style accompanied by a Kaen player
in the background.